The designer unleashed his pent-up imagination with an enthusiastic tribute to other art-world radicals: Giuseppe Arcimboldo, the 16th-century Italian artist who painted portraits out of fruit, seashells, and other inanimate objects; Matisse, in the bold use of amorphous color, particularly a princely red; and perhaps even Basquiat, in the way the crowned mask of the last look smiled through a pile of metal bits.


The label’s longstanding experiments in deconstruction, process, asymmetry, anonymity, found objects, and humor found safe harbor in the designer’s own penchant for romanticism and theatricality — even if those trademarks are somewhat subdued, for now.