You can't really talk about a new Catalan cuisine without talking about the Adrià brothers. And no sooner does the shrine to modern cookery El Bulli announce that it's closing its door, than the brothers' modernist tapas bar Tickets opens.
This time Albert Adrià is in command in Example, offering a taste of the past in the form of spherico olives, and “essence of sea” air on navajas (razor clams), the 33-course tasting menu rewritten as “tapas”. It’s the very antithesis of po-faced dining rooms: joyful, irreverent, verging on fantastical. Designed like a fairground complete with candyfloss machines and ice-cream carts, it is well worth the wait for a reservation if you missed eating at the mother ship.